Thursday 23 August 2012

Every so often there is the opportunity to travel a little closer to home, and though the wilds of Asia and Africa are fascinating, dear old Blighty is not without its charms. Summer may to date have been more than a little erratic, but on the three days last week of sunshine we escaped the office for the glorious coast of Norfolk.

You can tell you are approaching 'Chelsea on Sea' when the tractors are no longer John Deere or Massey Ferguson but Porsche Cayenne and Land Rover Evoque. The narrow streets of Burnham Market are lined with Rooney-mobiles and my 4x4, held together as it is with cable ties and gaffer tape, is the only one in sight that may actually have seen some mud. The children are Henry and Isabelle, the manicured wives are half a foot taller than their husbands, and the wines and cakes are organic, biodynamic and pricey. Far from escaping the city, it seems to have been dragged along behind.

We spent a pleasant hour or so mooching around, picnicked on the green and counted ourselves lucky we're not the kind of people who think £450 is a fair price for a woolly jumper. Back in the car, we explored the picturesque villages en-route to our B&B in Docking.

Holland House (http://www.hollandhousebandb.co.uk/) was a last-minute discovery courtesy of Trip Advisor. We knew little about the village, but it appeared a convenient point from which to explore the beaches, and they weren't averse to us coming with mongrel dog in tow.

The house itself is Grade 2 listed and was built in the 1700s by a wealthy Norfolk merchant, who probably made his money from the wool trade and/or smuggling liquor from the Continent when taxes in England were too high. The house is being lovingly restored by current owners, Mel and Steve, and samples of the historic wallpapers, dated by the V&A, hang on the breakfast room wall. Steve's art work, much of which depicts the nearby coast, decorates the rooms, and the house is a haven of peace. When the weather is fine, the sheltered garden is an ideal spot for curling up with a book in one of the deck chairs, and if you're lucky you'll even get a peep inside Steve's studio, where he works and also teaches others to paint.

Within 10 minutes drive from Docking, you are at the coast. Although Well-near-the-sea is a little crowded, and the fish and chip shops and souvenir stands do not help matters, the beaches are largely empty and unspoiled. During daylight hours there were a handful of people flying kites, walking their dogs and running frigid in and out of the sea, but as soon as dusk fell we had the sands to ourselves. Sand between your toes is an oft commented upon feel, but one that I truly adore.


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